In a large heavy saucepan combine split peas, water or broth, garlic and bay leaves and optional red pepper. Bring to a boil.

After 10 minutes, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until pea mixture thickens, about an hour.

Allow to cool slightly. Pick out the bay leaves. Pour in the olive oil and lemon juice and give the whole works a vigorous whisking, so pea mixture lightens and becomes smoother. It will be thicker and lumpier than hummus. This is as it should be. Think texture.

Peas may be covered and refrigerated at this point, but allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

Stir and taste. They should be velvety in texture, amazingly earthy in flavor. Season generously with sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Gently work in capers, chopped arugula and cilantro. Drizzle a little extra olive oil on top, if desired, and serve with toasted pita or other flatbread for scooping.