Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment or Silpats.

Stir the flour, evaporated cane sugar and baking powder together in a large bowl.  Zest in lemon or sprinkle in anise seeds if using.

Stir in the olive oil and wine until well combined.

Roll the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Pinch off a walnut-sized piece of dough and roll it out by hand into a skinny snake about 4 inches long.  Form it into a ring, gently pinching the ends together to seal.  Dough is very soft and forgiving.

Pour a few tablespoons of evaporated cane sugar into a broad shallow bowl.   Dust the ciambelline lavishly front and back with the cane sugar and place the cookies on the baking sheets, setting them about two inches apart.

Bake the ciambelline for 20 minutes, or until they’re pale yellow — about the shade of Prosecco.  Cool the ciambelline thoroughly, then store in an airtight container. They’ll keep for a week, or frozen, even longer.