MY FAVORITE PEOPLE, MY FAVORITE RECIPES: Pat Tanumihardja
I fell in love with Pat Tanumihardja with the release of her first book, The Asian Grandmothers Cookbook. Born and raised in Indonesia, Pat definitely has the Asia thing down, but never knew her grandmothers. Because of that, she was drawn to traditional Asian cookery, connecting to her cultural roots through food. I’m likewise drawn to traditional recipes — of every cuisine — and have a romantic attachment to ancestors I never knew.
The difference is, I actually want to eat the dishes shared by the surrogate grandmothers Pat met in the writing of her book. The eastern European eats of my great-great-great-great-greats? Not made for Miami and often not vegan-friendly.
Based in the DC area, Pat continues to transmit Asia’s rich cultural and culinary legacy through her blog Pickles and Tea, a collaboration with the Smithsonian’s Asian Pacific American Center and through her new book Farm to Table Asian Secrets — Vegan and Vegetarian Full-Flavored Recipes for Every Season. Traditional yet timeless, these dishes make every season delicious. Pat’s adorable guest post about learning to love winter vegetables made me fall in love with her all over again.
Wrangling with Winter Vegetables
By Pat Tanumihardja
Winter vegetables aren’t easy to love. Even I admit it.
Unlike the rainbow-hued vegetables of spring and summer, winter’s bounty is cloaked in shades of beige, green, darker green and the occasional orange (thank you, carrots and pumpkins!)
As dull and unexciting these vegetables may seem, I’ve realized there is hope yet if you put on your culinary thinking cap.
Think about winter’s freezing temperatures and four-foot snow drifts.
When a 5-year-old spies the snowy landscape outside his window, he thinks:
“Yay, no school!”
“Snowball fight!”
“Let’s go sledding!”
On the other hand …
… dad thinks: “Ugh, I have to shovel the driveway…”
… mom thinks: “What am I going to do with junior for a whole entire day?!”
It’s all about perspective.
By looking at winter vegetables in a different light, meals can take on new meaning, and flavors.
Brussels sprouts evolve from boiled blech to Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sweet Chili Sauce. Panko breadcrumbs gussy up boring mashed root vegetables into Winter Squash Croquettes.
Any winter green can channel the tropics—think creamy coconut milk and fiery chilies—when tossed into Winter Greens and Tofu in Spicy Coconut Sauce.
Over the years, I’ve learned to embrace (or endure?) the winters, cabbage recipes and snow storms et al. I even have a motto (which I stole from the Norwegians) –There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing.
And when I’m faced with my umpteenth bundle of rainbow chard, I don’t get mired in despair, I get inspired.
Et voilà, the results!
Rainbow Chard Korean Pancake
In this hearty Korean staple, rice flour adds texture for crispy edges while leaving the middle slightly chewy. But even if you omit it, the pancakes will still be tasty. Aim for a consistency that's between crepe batter and American pancake batter. The batter should coat the back of a spoon and drip down in a thick stream. Admittedly, I've never been good at flipping pancakes and omelets, so I sometimes divide up the batter into smaller portions and make smaller pancakes.Ingredients
Rainbow Chard Korean Pancake:
- 1 ¼ cups 150 g all-purpose flour
- ⅓ cup 150 g rice flour
- 1 ½ cups 375 ml water
- 8 oz 250 g rainbow chard
- 5 tablespoons vegetable oil divided
- ½ cup 75 g sliced yellow onion
- Fine sea salt
- Soy and Green Onion Dipping Sauce
Soy and Green Onion Dipping Sauce:
- ¼ cup 60 ml soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
- 2 tablespoons water
- 1 ½ tablespoons sesame oil
- 1 ½ tablespoons honey
- 2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds crushed with a mortar and pestle
- 2 teaspoons coarse chili pepper flakes or chili paste
- 2 green onions scallions, green and white parts, chopped
Instructions
Rainbow Chard Korean Pancake:
Mix the all-purpose and rice flours together with the water in a large mixing bowl. Gently tear or cut the chard leaves from the center ribs. Chop the ribs into ½-in (1.5-cm) pieces. Stack the leaves and roll lengthwise into cigars, then cut crosswise into ½-in (1.5-cm) ribbons. Keep ribs and leaves separate. You'll have about 1 cup ribs and 3 cups packed leaves. Swirl 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium nonstick or cast-iron skillet and set over medium-high heat until shimmering hot. Add the onion and chard ribs. Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, until the onions turn translucent. Add the ribs and continue to stir and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the leaves and a pinch of salt, then cook until they wilt, another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool for about 5 minutes. Fold the chard and onions into the batter. Wipe out the skillet and heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat for 30 seconds. Pour half the batter into the skillet, tilting and swirling so the batter forms an even layer. The pancake should be about ¼-in (0.5-cm) thick. Cook, shaking the skillet occasionally, until the bottom is golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Lift up one edge and pour in 1 more tablespoon oil, then flip the pancake carefully and press down with a spatula to flatten it and ensure it cooks thoroughly. Cook until the pancake is golden brown on the bottom and the edges are crisp, another 1 to 2 minutes. Turn and press down on the pancake 2 to 3 more times until the pancake is cooked through. Transfer the pancake to a serving platter and keep warm in a 200°F (100°C) oven. Repeat with the remaining batter. To serve, cut each pancake into 8 slices and serve with Soy and Green Onion Dipping Sauce.Soy and Green Onion Dipping Sauce:
Whisk all ingredients together in a bowl and refrigerate until ready to serve.
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